Birding in Colombia’s Central Andes – 1 of ?

My July 2023 Birding By Bus (BBB) tour of the Central Andes of Colombia was my first organized, international birding tour. It was SO wonderful that I think I might follow BBB all over the planet. If they are going, I’m going. Admittedly, this was probably the perfect first trip with BBB since Eliana (one half of BBB) is from Colombia, and her enthusiasm for birds is equal to that of her beautiful country.

A note about the birds before we dive in:

Colombia has approximately 20% of Earth’s bird diversity translating into ~1,960 species of birds. I saw at least 200 new bird species (eBird checklist edits pending) on this trip. Mucho lifers and mucho lifer dances! I felt like a new birder again, not to mention that many of the bird common names “down here” seem to be autogenerated by an overactive AI system. If you had told me we were going to see a Crescent-collared Buffy-rumped Warbler Sparrow-Tyrant, I would have put down my Pony pop, nodded, and said “ok let’s get it!”

My birdy highlights were the White-capped Dipper, the many many species of antpittas, and (spoiler alert) the Buffy Helmetcrest. Visiting the high-Andes Páramo ecosystem and walking around the tall frailejones (giant Asteraceae subshrubs) were also a delight.

So, let’s get started. This will be the first of at least four posts. I promise there will be more bird photos in the future posts. It took me some time to get used to my camera’s limitation. Eliana from BBB also took photographs of us, and a few of these are hers.

July 22, 2023: Bienvenida a Medellin!

July 23, 2023: Our foot tour of Medellin.

Medellin is the second-largest city in Colombia. If you know about Colombia’s history, you’ve likely heard of Medellin. This city is now a thriving, modern, metropolitan city with anything you’d see/expect in a large American or Canadian city. We walked 10 miles through Medellin that day and then met up with our tour group that evening.

The first of many wonderful empanadas. Govindas Veg Food Sede la Playa, Medellin.

Botero Plaza, Medellin.

One of Fernando Botero’s sculpture’s “Perro.”

July 24, 2023: Enroute from Medellin to Jardín.

Bosques de Quebrada Sinifaná.

Pony! It’s a malt soda and comes in these little adorable bottles.

Eliana showing us how to eat granadilla fruit. You bang it against your forehead and then pry it open with your fingers.

Granadilla fruit. Similar texture as a pomegranate. The colour is far from appetizing, but it is delicious.

I think this is a segment of the Cauca River.

Our lunch stop at a restaurant in the Finca La Manchuria.

One of the many Colombian vegetarian dishes available.

When we were not birding, we were eating (or sleeping). The food was great and continuous 🙂 BBB ensured we had three full meals a day and plenty of snacks and filtered water in between. I’m not sure why I packed NINE protein bars, but I’m leaving them home next time. Also, our crew included two vegans and a few vegetarians (include me and C). This was not an issue whatsoever. Eliana ensured we sin carne kids were well taken care of. Eliana was also justifiably enthusiastic about her country’s deserts/snacks/fruits and surprised us with things like granadilla fruit, buñuelos, and obleas. Hot chocolate was also VERY common in Colombia and appears to be consumed on the regular. I partook at every opportunity I had. Most meals were served with a side of arepas, rice, beans, and a firm/crumbly cheese. Colombian beans are HUGE and really tasty. I also discovered huevos paricos, a simple scrambled egg mixture with green onions and tomatoes. Served with, of course, arepas.

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock at the Jardín Cock-of-the-Rock Lek, just outside Jardín.

My first of many chocolate con leche, served at a cafe at the Jardín Cock-of-the-Rock Lek.

My other half at the the Jardín Cock-of-the-Rock Lek. #notthecardinal. Photo by Birding By Bus.

Just outside Jardín.

Our home for two nights at Plantación Hotel in Jardín.

July 25, 2023: Morning jaunt from Jardín to the Finca Bambusa area.

Tropical Kingbird in the Finca Bambusa area.

Finca Bambusa.

Russet-backed Oropendola at Finca Bambusa.

Squirrel Cuckoo at Finca Bambusa.

Finca Bambusa. Photo by Birding By Bus.

Finca Bambusa.

Blue-necked Tanager at Finca Bambusa.

Basilica Menor of the Immaculate Conception, Jardín.

Café Macanas, Jardín.

Jardín.

Jardin.

Jardín.

Me, walking by one of a few bird murals in Jardín. Photo by Birding By Bus.

Our group’s album “Blackish Rail” comes out June 2024! Jardín. Photo by Birding by Bus.

We had a great group of mixed ages. I made some fabulous new friends, and saying goodbye to them and to Eliana and Diego at the end of the trip was so hard! I hope to keep in touch with a handful of new friends and see them in the future. I’ve also been in a consistently positive mood since the trip, despite being back to my rather formulaic lifestyle.  

Cascada La Escalera, Jardín.

Torrent Tyrannulet at Cascada La Escalera, Jardín.

White-capped Dipper at Cascada La Escalera, Jardín. Seeing this species was a major highlight for me, and I’m even on video doing a dipper dance (IYKYK).

BIG SMILES after seeing the dipper! Photo by Birding By Bus.

Stay tuned for more posts on Day 4 through 9!